Install Guide for Pioneer DMH-2660NEX on
Dodge Promaster 2500 Chassis
Parts List:
Pioneer DMH-2660NEX
Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter
Metra 95-6523 Dash Kit
Metra Radio Removal Tools
iDatalink Maestro RR Interface Module
iDatalink HRN-RR-CH3 Factory Integration Adapter
Shrink tubing
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Charger Cable –(A-Male to Mini-B Cord)
Tools List:
Philips Screwdriver
Torx Driver (size T20)
Fish Tape (string trimmer string or scrap electrical wire)
Electrical Tape
Wire cutter/strippers
Very small flat blade screwdriver (or stiff wire)
Heat gun (or lighter)
Getting started:
A few things are assumed in the guide below, some basic understanding of the tools and how to use
them, and that the wire harness is pre-connected (either purchased or self-soldered/crimped) per the
guide provided by manufacturer.
Assemble all of your parts and tools, park your van on a level
surface, and make sure you have a few hours (it can be done
faster, but it is a bit tricky the first go-round).
Part 1 – Disassembly:
Remove Stock Receiver
First remove the factory radio, insert the Metra Radio Removal
tools (per the instructions) into the holes on the factory radio.
The pins should “click” into position and when tugging on them
you should feel the radio start to slide.
See the image (left) on how the pins will click into the tabs on
the factory receiver.
Pull the receiver out and disconnect all of the component
cables.
Once the factory receiver is removed, set aside.
Remove access panels
Locate the two screws underneath the top of the dash
inside the radio slot (see right, red arrows). With a torx
driver (T20) carefully unscrew and set aside (be careful
not to drop). With the two screws removed, the clip-
board panel should pop up and can be set to the side.
Next, locate to the left of
the steering column near
the bottom of the dash
the chassis fuse panel
cover. There are two philips head screws (on retainers) which should
come off quite easily.
The next panel to remove is the kick panel underneath the steering
column, there are three philips head screws securing the panel. One
screw is on the left above fuse panel, one screw is on the right near the
USB/AUX inputs and the third is below along the edge nearest the pedals.
Remove each and then the panel can gently be pulled forward and lifted up (there are tabs holding the
lower edge in place).
Expose USB input
In order to use the in-dash USB port and not have a loose cable (as supplied with the new unit) it is
necessary to remove the mount. This is a bit tricky, the
easiest way seems to be to lay on the floor and reach up
under the dash. Once you have located the connector,
gently squeeze the clips to pop it loose and out of the dash
(see image).
Once the connector box is removed, unclip the USB cable,
this will not be used as it is not rated for the data
transmission required for Apple/Android connections.
Part 2 – Running Cables
Run USB & Vehicle Monitor Cable
There are two somewhat tricky cables which need to be fished from under the dash by the pedals and
up to the radio cabinet. These are the new USB cable and the vehicle monitoring connection. The easiest
way to do this is to use a fish tape, section of string trimmer string, or long somewhat stiff wire (like NM-
14), if you do not have access to either it can be done just using the USB cable but is a bit trickier.
First, from top down sneak your fish tape to the space in the area by the pedals. Then, tape the USB
cable (you should be pulling the standard “A” side up to the cabinet) and tape the small black connector
end of the red/yellow wire bundle to the fish tape.
Gently tease the cables back up and into the radio cabinet. From here remove them from the fish wire
and tape to the side (you don’t want to lose the ends).
Splice factory microphone
For some reason, the iDatalink and wiring harness do not come with
the factory microphone as part of the connections. The radio is
supplied with a separate microphone which “can be taped in a
convenient location”. This is not a great look and it is not that difficult
to connect to the factory wire.
First, locate the black and white wires in position 29 & 30 of the stereo
multi-pin connector (see image left). These will need to be removed
by depressing the small plastic tab inside the pin connection (the best
tool for this is a very small screwdriver or jewelers pick). While
pressing down on the plastic tab, pull (somewhat hard) on the wire
and it should pop out of the pin connector.
To connect the wires just removed, you will use the supplied
microphone cable (discarding the microphone end). Cut the
cable approximately 18” from the mono-plug end. Carefully
strip 1” of the outer black plastic sheath being careful not to
nick or cut any of the small copper wires underneath. Gently
pull those wires back and twist together exposing the white
sheath. With extreme care, remove ½” of the white sheath to
expose the center wire bundle of the cable, twist these
together.
With the white and black wires from the vehicle and the plug-
end for the microphone, you can now connect them together.
Slide on a section of shrink tubing (green in image) for each
wire (white & black) and a slightly larger (to cover the whole
connection) section shrink tubing (blue in image) over the plug-
end wire. Slip the exposed plug-end center wires into the metal
end of the white vehicle wire and crimp, then do the same for
the outer plug-end wires and the black vehicle wire.
Once crimped, slide the shrink tube over and shrink (heat-gun), then slide
the larger shrink over both wires to completely encase and shrink it
down.
For extra stability, the section can be zip-tied to the larger wire bundle.
Part 3 –Connections
Prior to connecting the various cables and components install the Metra 95-6523 Dash Kit, this is the
plastic bezel and radio mounting kit.
First remove the metal factory mounts, they are located on the left/right sides of the cabinet. There are
two screws on each (orange highlight below), remove them (careful to not drop into the dash). Set aside
two screws.
Next, since the Promaster does not come
equipped with retainer clips on each screw
mount hole, you will need to
carefully pop off two of the metal
screw retainer clips (see image to
the right). Once these are
removed, install them on the lower
screw mount hole for the Dash Kit to attach
to (see photo to the left, purple highlight).
With the retainer clips attached, you can now mount the Dash Kit as per the
instructions included (picture on right).
Next, add the Dash Kit slide mounts to the DMH receiver unit. The install guide
states that the plastic pin should be removed, this can be done easily with a pair
of plyers or sharp knife.
There are multiple screw options for attaching the slide mount, the
picture (left) shows a good option for screw positioning.
Recommend that the depth of the slide be slightly deeper than
that photographed, the “stop” of the slide should be over the
plastic of the receiver, not on the metal as shown. If set too
shallow, the bezel will not clip on properly.
Everything should now be ready to connect.
Follow the directions provided by iDatalink to flash the unit and then connect in the various component
cables (see images). iDatalink instructions should be followed to ensure most up to date
recommendations are followed.
Connect the antenna adapter cable to the white antenna cable coming up inside the radio cabinet.
If you are also installing the Sirius/XM adapter, connect this to the yellow antenna cable (not in all
vehicles).
Connect the USB cable to the block. Once attached, replace block into the dash, it should click audibly
when snapped into place.
Connect the vehicle monitor cable (red/yellow wire bundle) to the OBD port. Note, it may be necessary
to unplug this connection for state emissions inspections or diagnostic work to read trouble codes.
Connect the multi-pin connector from the wire harness up to the vehicle multi-pin. Ensure that the lever
is fully snapped into place.
Plug all components into the back of the new radio. Instructions from Pioneer and iDatalink should be
followed, below is a quick reference of cables and positions.
Testing
Prior to finishing the install, putting the new stereo into the cabinet, closing up the panels and returning
to road-ready, it is a good idea to test the system. This way you can troubleshoot any connections
without having to take everything apart a second time.
Turn the vehicle on, you should see the radio power up. It is recommended to test the following:
Backup camera (with foot on brake) put vehicle into Reverse
FM/AM radio
Sirius/XM (if installed, note it may require code transfer from prior radio which can take some
time)
Apple Carplay/Android Auto (connect phone to cable inserted into the USB next to steering
wheel)
Microphone (best tested using Google Assistant or Siri while checking Apple Carplay/Android
Auto)
Steering wheel controls (Skip, Volume, Siri/Google Assistant, etc)
Once everything is confirmed to be working, move on to packing the cables and closing everything up. If
a particular item is not working, check your connections and try again.
Part 4 – Reassembly and Closing up
Once everything is successfully tested final install can begin. The first step is to
push (gently) all of the cables into the cabinet. Then partially slide the receiver
into the cabinet, just enough to hold it in place. Now, the various cables and the
iDatalink unit will need to be carefully crammed into space to allow for the
receiver to be fully inserted.
Once the cables are pushed out of the way, fully
insert the receiver to the cabinet. It should click
when the tabs on the slider snap into place. If
necessary you can guide cables out of the way
from the open access port if while inserting
receiver.
Receiver should sit nicely in the cabinet, this is a good time to test the
bezel fit. Snap the bezel in place and confirm it lines up nicely with the
dash and receiver. If it is not fitting, remove the bezel and receiver,
adjust slide positions accordingly and repeat.
For replacing the top access panel (clip-board), use the torx driver and
a plastic bag to hold the screw (see picture). The plastic bag will
prevent the screw from being dropped accidently into the dash and
once the screw is fully tightened, a sharp tug will rip the bag loose.
Repeat with second screw.
Once this is completed, re-install the lower kick-plate panel, reversing
the steps performed to remove. Replace fuse panel cover, tuck the
OBD connection inside.
Final step is to place the bezel over the receiver.
Disclaimer:
The material and information contained in this Install Guide is for general information purposes only. You should not rely upon
the material or information in this Install Guide as a basis for replacing professional installation, modifications or any other
decisions.
Whilst the Creator of the Install Guide endeavored to generate accurate and correct information, there are no representations
or warranties of any kind, express or implied about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect
to the Install Guide or the information, or related graphics contained in the Install Guide for any purpose. Any reliance you
place on such material is therefore strictly at your own risk.
Creator of Install Guide will not be liable for any false, inaccurate, inappropriate or incomplete information presented on the
website.
To the extent not prohibited by law, in no circumstances shall the Creator be liable to you or any other third parties for any loss
or damage (including, without limitation, damage for loss of functionality or loss of use) arising directly or indirectly from your
use of or inability to use, this Install Guide or any of the material contained in it.